GUJRAT

 

        (Sabarmati Ashram)

We reached Ahmadabad at 6.30, evening. It was 8, night when we checked in the hotel. The people of Gujrat are mainly vegetarian. The hotel does nor prepare non-veg dishes. I had come to Rajkot in 2014 to attend one GST law drafting committee meeting. We were put up in a five-star hotel. There also, they did not have any non-veg food. I asked the hotel manager regarding their aversion to non-veg food. He said, “If we prepare non-veg items, customers will not come and we have to close the hotel.”

The veg food was delicious, especially halwa.

2

(The veranda of the residence of the Mahatma from 1918 to 1930, Sabarmati)

We visited Sabarmati Ashram. I had visited once when I had come to Ahmadabad in 2015 for a GST law drafting committee meeting. Mahatma Gandhi had resided here from 1918 to 1930. His residence had four rooms. He lived in one room, Kasturaba had her room and the third was for guests. In the front, a room was in the left and the right was the veranda. Gandhiji met the people and the guests in this room and on the veranda.

There was a small two-room house in the front of and right side of Gandhiji’s residence. Vinoba Bhabe and Miraben were residing there. The simple life they led is known from the house they lived in. Simple living and high thinking. A man born in twenty-first century cannot believe so great persons stayed in such small houses, and led such a simple life.

                               (Akshardham Temple)

We went to Akshardham temple from Sabarmati. Swami Narayan is worshipped in the temple. The construction of the temple was completed in 1992. A servitor told us the construction took 12 years to complete. A modern temple, very clean and disciplined. No one here asked for dakshina or money.

Swami Narayan has great influence on the social life of the Gujratis. The main principles of Swami Narayan are to avoid intoxicants, practice vegetarianism and follow the path of non-violence. Jainism and Swami Narayan have influenced Gujratis to be vegetarians.

3

We went from Ahmedabad to Dwaraka by bus; ten hours’ journey.  We reached Dwaraka at 6 PM, and checked in hotel. In the evening at 7, we proceeded to have darshan of Dwarakadhish, Lord Krishna. The temple is hardly one km from the hotel. We walked. First, went to river Gomti, near to the temple. The river is not as wide as the Mahanadi or the Brahmani, rather narrow. The river bank and the steps to touch the water, were dirty. It’s natural as thousands of devotees throng; but the administration could have improved the place.

 We stood in the queue to have darshan. The darshan was conducted in a disciplined way. After the darshan, I felt head reeling. Paresh brought prasad; I took two ladoos and felt better. Being a diabetic, my sugar level had, perhaps, plummeted.

4

Lord Krishna and Mahabharat are part of our culture. We have read or heard stories of Mahabharat since our childhood; the splendor, grandeur, opulence and magnificence of the kings and emperors, palaces and buildings, the war and the valor. B.R.Chopra’s Mahabharat telecast in early 1990s in DD has added to our imagination. But in reality, the places associated with Lord Krishna or of Mahabharat are ordinary villages, narrow lanes, crowded bazaars and unimpressive temples and buildings.

We went to Bet Dwaraka. The bus could not go up to the temple. We had to hire an autorickshaw, and went into a village to reach the temple.  At one place, the rickshaw dropped us and we had to walk, zigzag narrow lanes. It was 9.30, morning. We had to stand in a queue. The priest covered the image with a screen. We asked a priest the reason. He told it was the time for the God to have breakfast. After breakfast, he would take a nap and then, wake up. Like Lord Jagannath, the Gods here have breakfast, lunch and dinner, and take rest like ordinary human beings.

The priest uncovered the God at 10 AM, and we had darshan.

It is said, here Sudama had met (Bhet) Lord Krishna, so the place is called Bet Dwaraka. I have read somewhere; Lord Krishna had presented awards (Bhent) here and that’s why the place is known Bet, from Bhent, Dwaraka.

5

We went to Nageswar Jyotirlinga from Bet Dwaraka. The temple and the image of the God is not very old. The large image of Lord Shiv is of saffron colour. In Odisha, the images of Shiv are black. The Shivling inside the temple is made of silver. One priest told us that Gulshan Kumar, the owner of T-series has renovated the temple. Gulshan Kumar died in 1997. He must have done it before 1997. The renovation had cost him Rs 5 crore, then.

        (Rukmini Devi temple)

We came to Rukmini Devi temple from Nageswar. One priest told us the story of the temple. Lord Krishna eloped Rukmini and on the way, he met Durvasha. Krishna invited Durvasha for a feast in his palace. Durvasha said that he would not go in the chariot driven by horses. So, Durvasha sat on the chariot, Krishna and Rukmini dragged. After some time, Rukmini felt thirsty. Krishna got water from Goddess Ganga and gave to Rukmini. He forgot to offer water to Durvasha. Durvasha, the guest felt humiliated and cursed, “Krishna and Rukmini will not meet for twelve years.

Krishna lived in Dwarka, and Rukmini stayed in this temple, twelve kms away from Dwarka, for twelve years.

6

We travelled by bus. The two sides of the road have green fields. The farmers have grown vegetables, peanuts or maize. Cash crops. In Odisha, at this time, the farmers grow paddy. We did not see a thatched house. The houses mostly had concrete roofs. Gujrat is a rich state. In 2024-25, Odisha collected GST Rs. 26142 crore, Gujrat’s collection was Rs.73200 crore. Their purchasing power is almost three times more than Odisha’s

      (In the first floor of Kirti Mandir, birth place of Mahatma Gandhi)

We went from Dwarka to Porbandar. Visited Kirti Mandir, birth place of Mahatma Gandhi. Gandhiji was born in 1869, one hundred fifty-seven years ago. The house must be at least 160 or 170 years old. A three-story house, there is wooden ladder to go up to the upper floor. A rope is hung; one has to hold the rope to climb to the upper floor. His father was a rich man, a dewan. But Gandhi led the life of a poor common man. Though he was a barrister, he turned his back on comfort, and luxuries and lived like a poor common man.

             (At Sudama temple, Porbandar)

Sudama temple is located in Porbandar. We visited Sudama temple. We went from Porbandar to Somnath.

I had visited once Somnath temple in 2014 and seen the light and sound show in the evening. This time, light and sound show had been stopped for rainy season.

In the temples here, no one asks for Dakshina or money. They even don’t charge for keeping the shoes and cell phones. In Bet Dwraka, it’s written on the wall, the priests and servitors of the temple are paid employees and the tourists or devotees should not pay to anyone.

In Porbandar and Somnath, I came across a few beggars. I was surprised to see beggars in Modi-land.

7

We went to Triveni Tirth; a sangam of three rivers: Hiran, Kapila and Saraswati. In Prayagraj, the sangam comprises Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati. But in Prayagraj, Saraswati is invisible. People throw puffed rice or flour to the water for the ducks swimming in the river. But before the ducks reach, fish eat up. In few instances, the ducks succeed.

We went to Bhalka Tirth from Triveni. It is said Jara Sabar mistook Krishna’s foot as a deer’s ear and shot an arrow, killing Krishna. We also visited Gangeswar Mahadev or Panchalingeswar in Diu. Five shivlingas are in a cave touching the sea. The waves wash the linga in every minute. One has to climb down to touch the shivlingas. A beautiful sight.

        (Inside Diu Fort)

We visited the Diu fort, and checked in hotel at 4.30 PM. The hotel or resorts where we were put up have cottages. Each cottage is circular in structure having thatched roofs. The house had three electric lanterns in the room and a chrpoi or string cot in front of the cottage. The attempt was to create a village feeling.

         (Diu Beach, in the afternoon)

8

We reached Gir Forest at 3 PM. Last time, in 2014, I had come to Gir. We had stayed in a nearby guest house, and reached Gir at around 6, morning. A Gujrat officer told us we should reach Gir early to see lions. With the rise of the sun in the sky, the lions go to deep jungle to cooler places. Then, we had seen seventeen or eighteen lions. At one place, near a water body, a lion was sleeping and a forest guard was resting a few metres away. An ACF (Assistant Conservator of Forest, who was acting as our guide, told us, the lions never attacked human beings unless provoked.  The lions do not relish human flesh.

       (The Lioness looking for the prey)

When we reached Gir this time in the afternoon, it was drizzling. We saw two lions and one lioness. At one place, one lioness was sitting and watching a herd of deer on the other side of the road, perhaps, looking for an opportunity to prey. The deer could smell the danger and became alert. They took position to run, if the lioness made an attempt to attack. One deer made a sound, perhaps, to alert others about the danger.

(Sterling Rudra Resort)

We were put up in a resort called, Sterling Rudra Gir. The resort was located in Gir Forest. Scenic environment, it had a romantic ambience. But we had to stay there one night only. The next morning, we left for Kavadia, to see the Statue of Unity.

9

Statue of Unity is the statue of Sardar Vallavbhai Patel. Narendra Modi started construction when he was the chief minister, Gujrat and completed after he became Prime Minister. It has become a tourist place as it’s the tallest statue in the world. The place does not have any historical, cultural or religious importance. Sardar Sarovar Dam is also not a big dam like Hirakud; the valley of flowers did not have flowers. The place has become tourist place because of publicity and perhaps, for PM Modi and the BJP government at the Centre. The IRCTC, a central government organization, has put this place in the itinerary. From there we went to Nilkanth Dham.

10

In Badodara, we visited Laxmi Vilash Palace. We were a group of 28; 16 people declined to visit the palace, paying Rs. 250/ per head. We twelve visited. This was the palace of Gaikwads. They did not show us the entire palace, only the ground floor, the arms and ammunition, the costumes used by the kings, darbar hall, etc. The palace was built in 1890 at the cost of Rs 25 lakh.

(Lakshmi  Vilash Palace)

Common people like to purchase dress, if they have money; go and worship a stone, if put on vermilion, as Goddess, but they don’t have interest to visit historical places. The people having historical sense can appreciate a historical monument. If someone does not know about Ashoka and Kalinga war, he will not like and appreciate Dhauli.

We returned from Badodara to Bhubaneswar via Hyderabad.

******

ARUNACHAL

 

(Sela Pass, bordering China)

Our flight to Kolkata was at 7.05, morning. We arrived Kolkata at 8, morning. Our next flight to Itanagar was at 12.45 PM. If the flight to Itanagar departed on time, we would reach around 2 PM. We did not have breakfast at home before we left for airport as we had to reach airport at least one hour before the scheduled departure. We decided to have something to eat in Kolkata airport, and have our lunch in Itanagar. Food in the airport was costly. We had plates of three idlis that cost us Rs. 350 per plate. We reached Itanagar at 2 PM.

The vehicles hired for us did not enter into the airport. The drivers of the vehicles of the airport had a union; they did not allow outside vehicles. The vehicles hired for us were from Assam. We had to walk one and half miles to come outside the airport area. We left Itanagar at around 2.30 PM. We were all hungry. The tour operator told the driver to stop the vehicle near a hotel.

A standard hotel was not to be seen. The road side hotels were mud walled thatched houses. The driver stopped the vehicle near such a hotel. But the hotel did not have food. The manager told there was no electricity since the night before, and they did not have water to cook food. We approached another hotel; the manager there said that they could not serve food for twenty-seven people at a time. We were a group of twenty-seven including the tour operator.

At last, we reached a hotel that agreed us to serve food; a simple meal of roti, dal and cabbage curry. The food was tasty, perhaps, for we were hungry and it served us hot. It was already 4 PM. We reached Tejpur at 6, evening, and checked in the hotel.

2

                                             (Sela Pass, the lake behind is frozen)

We started our journey at 9, morning from Tejpur to Bomdila. Mountainous road; the roads have been made cutting the mountains and forest. On the way we saw a small waterfall. Bus journey, because of the road conditions, took time. We reached Bomdila at 4, afternoon. Temperature in Bomdila was 9 degree, Celsius. The temperature reduced in the night; in the morning, it was 2 degree.

                                               (Paresh and I with Mrutyunjay Mohanty)

The bus we traveled had eight passengers.  We four, Paresh and I with our wives; P.K.Das and his wife, Dr S. P. Panda and Mrutyunjay Mohanty. Mrutyunjay Mohanty is a lover of literature and he had read both Paresh and me. He was pleased to meet us and we discussed literature and current affairs while travelling.

                                              (Bumla Pass, Paresh and me, enjoying snow fall)

We had our lunch in a road side hotel. Arunachal does not have many tourists. The hotels find it difficult to serve to food thirty people at a time. The hotel cooked food and served us. The manager and, perhaps, the owner also, was a lady. I noticed, the shops and hotels in Arunachal are mainly managed by ladies.

We went to Sela pass, bordering China. The temperature there was 1 degree Celsius. The mountains on the way to Sela Pass were covered with snow. The lake near the Sela pass was frozen. Biting cold, we did not have sufficient winter dress to beat . We shivered.  On our way to Tawang where we were to stay the night, we visited Jaswant Gadwar memorial. In 1962 was with China, Jaswant alone had killed many Chinese soldiers. He is awarded Mahavir Chakra. It is believed; his soul is present there, and still giving protection.

                                                (At Jaswant Gadwar memorial)
3

We went to Bumla Pass, border with China. The distance from Tawang was 37 Kms. We calculated we would return within four hours and have lunch in the hotel. But weather changed. There was snow fall. The temperature was minus (-) 3 degree. The driver tied chains with the back wheels for the vehicle to move on snow. First time I witnessed snow fall. We went to the army base near the border. Had hot noodles and bought woolen caps and hand gloves. It was difficult to drive on snow. We had left the hotel for Bumla Pass at 8.30, morning, and returned at 4.30, afternoon. The to and fro journey took eight hours.

                   (Praresh, Me, Mrutyunjay Mohanty, Dr S.P Panda and Dr P.K. Das)

It was drizzling in Tawang. The temperature was 6 degree Celsius. We were hungry. We gobbled up roti, cabbage curry and egg omelets the hotel managed to prepare and serve us in haste. We did not go anywhere in the evening.

4

                                                                (Near a monastery)

We left Tawang at 8.45, morning and reached Tezpur at 8.30, night. Twelve hours bus journey, I undertook first time after many years. I was afraid of such a long journey, but for Paresh and other co-travelers; time passed gossiping and merrymaking inside the bus.

The main religion practiced by the people is Buddhism. We have seen large Buddha statues and monasteries in Bomdila and other places. The pattern of the building of all monasteries is almost the same. On our way back to Tejpur we also visited one Buddha statue and a water fall. The water fall originates from Sela Pass and the river that flows nearby originates from China. Hydroelectricity is generated from the water fall. A beautiful sight.

                                                               (With Paresh)

We witnessed snow covered mountains and snow fall on the way; snowflakes hung from the branches and leaves of the pine trees. Back home, I had posted a short video of the scene in my Facebook timeline; some people mistook the place Switzerland.  

******

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                                                

 

Sadanand, You Should Not Have Left Us So Early

 

 

I met Sadanand for the first time in 1996 in Rourkela. We knew each other much before the said meeting. He had written me letters on my stories, on two or three occasions. I had read him. He learnt from someone about my posting in Rourkela. He was working in the state bank of India in a Rourkela branch. He came with poet Ashok Chandra Mohapatra. Then, we met at least once in every week. He introduced me to his other friends; poet Radhu Misra. Kshirod Behera, Rajeev Pani, and others. We sat in some place, discussed stories, language and literature, future of Odia novels and language, et al.

( Paresh Patnaik, Rabi Panda, Sahadev Sahoo and Sadanand Tripathy, in Cuttack in 2019 at Odisha Maritime Museum)

Our relation continued through letters after I was transferred from Rourkela. When mobile phones and WhatsApp came to be in use, we talked over phone. But he always preferred to give his views on stories in writing. When he wanted to speak on my stories, he sent messages in WhatsApp. He did not praise only; he also conveyed, if he noticed any incongruity, or if he did not like something in the story.  On some occasions, I have also accepted his views, and revised the story before the stories are compiled in a book.

(Odisha Art and Literature Festival, Puri in 2025. Mousumi Das, Paresh Patnaik, Sahadev Sahoo and Sadanand Tripthy)

He had dedicated his life for literature. After his working hours in the bank, he read, thought, wrote or discussed literature with his friends. He was very happy when he met a writer, irrespective of age; his happiness was visible on his face and manner. He was senior to me in age and writing, but he treated me equal, and a friend. He insisted on not addressing him Sadanand Babu, but by the first name Sadanand or Sadanand Bhai. He was handsome and his handwriting was beautiful.

(Letter dated 17th July 1999 after I was transferred from Rourkela to Cuttack)

Last time he sent me a massage in WhatsApp, just one year ago, on 20 April, 2025 on my story published in Nabalipi. We dd not think even in our imagination, he would leave us so early. I have lost a friend, and a well-wisher and Odisha lost a brilliant litterateur.

(His last message to me on a story published in Nabalipi, April, 2025. He has sent the msg on 20 April, 2025)

( Inauguration of the Souvenir in his memory)

 

( News in Sambad)

Six Women in the Life of Krishna

 

The story of Krishna and the Mahabharat, originally in Sanskrit, have been written and rewritten in different languages. The different versions are not direct translations of the original Sanskrit script, but adaptations that incorporate regional folklore, culture and also additional plots. The story of Krishna or the Mahabharat in different languages and adaptations enthralls the people across the generations since time immemorial. Paresh Kumar Patanaik has picked up six women in the life of Krishna, and has told an interesting aspect of the great story.

Krishna goes to Mathura, kills Kansa, and becomes the crown prince. Devaki forbids him to return to Gokul. In the story, Yasoda, a fierce silent competition between Devaki and Yasoda begins to claim Krishna, who becomes a battle field between two mothers; one who has given him birth and the other who has raised him. Devaki makes Krishna promise to discard the flute, forget his childhood, the dust, cows and forest of Gokul. In the process, Krishna is crushed. He leaves Mathura for Dwaraka, but pines for Gokul, his foster mother, the flute and the Gopis.

Bhadra is an innocent maiden of Gokul. She believes Krishna in Gokul loves only the married women. Therefore, she, being unmarried, never gets his attention. She marries to an unworthy person, only to get Krishna’s love. But she finds Krishna, a changed person in Mathura. She is no longer the cowherd, the lover of Gopis, but the crown prince. Krishna spurns her offer. Bhadra returns disheartened, but does not go back to Gokul. Her dead body was seen floating in the waters of Yamuna.

Devaki is possessive of Krishna. She takes all care for Krishna to forget his past. She never allows him to go back to Gokul lest she may loss Krishna to Yasoda. But there is a chance meeting of Yasoda in Kuruksetra Varuni bath. There, in presence of all; Devaki, Kunti, Droupadi,  Pandav and Kuru queens, a question arises who Krishna loves most; Devaki who has given him birth or Yasoda who has brought up him. Krishna does not answer, but says he is hungry. Yasoda offers her breast and Krishna presses his lips; milk flows into his mouth. The matter is resolved for all there to see.

Chandrasen leaves the job of an archer in Kansa’s army to keep vigil on Radha. Still, he hears Radha roaming in the Kadamba grove with Krishna in moonlit nights. He lives the life of a helpless and a tortured husband. After twenty-five years of Krishna leaving Gokul, Chandrasen, without job, has become poor and Radha sick. But Radha refuses medicine, and dies. Chandrasen sets out towards Dwaraka to confront Krishna to give the sad news, and ask how Krishna does not find even an hour to meet Radha during the twenty-five years after he left Gokul for Mathura.

The Yadav clan is decimated, Dwaraka is sinking in the sea, Krishna is struck by an arrow of the hunter and the dying Krishna sends Daruka to Arjun to take his sixteen thousand one hundred and eight queens to the safety of Hastinapur. On the way, a village headman challenges Arjun to leave the queens with the villagers. Queens are given option to go to Hastinapur to leave the life of a widow or remain in the villagers in dust and forest. All the queens preferred not to be one among the sixteen thousand to live in a caged palace, but to stay with the villagers as their wives, except Sukanya. Once her skin is touched by Krishna, Sukanya does not want to share it to be touched by anyone. She chooses to live the rest of her life in the memories of Krishna, her loved one.

The Pandavs coronate Parikshit on the throne and embark upon an unprecedented and almost impossible journey to heaven in mortal forms. Droupadi follows the five brothers. She falls ill and cannot move forward in the steep path of boulders and snow. The Pandavs, for whom she has sacrificed her dignity in the Kuru court, shared pain and suffering in the jungles and served as a maid servant in the Virat palace with them in disguise, have deserted her. She dies in isolation and remains buried in the snow, without any funeral rites performed for her. 

Paresh Patnaik’s Sriradha and Other Stories, translated by Rumi Malik, describes the above six women-Yasoda, Devaki, Bhadra, Radha, Sukanya and Droupadi- in human light. They do not have divinity, but are human beings with human weakness, emotions and failings. Written in lucid style, the stories are readable, and also captivating.

 

Sriradha and Other Stories

By Paresh Patnaik

Tr. Rumi Malik

Publisher: Shalandi Books

Pages-148

Price: Rs. 250

 

 *****

 (The book is available on Amazon and shalandi.in)